Taranto,Italy

Men in wellies selling fish on corners, a collapsing historic medieval centre and an industrial horror show (with the worst emissions in the country) – Taranto’s distinctive characteristics protect an interesting, rough heart.

The city has lately made the news for all the wrong reasons. The city administration collapsed in 2007 after €357 million disappeared.

This is all a far cry from Taranto’s glamorous history. Founded in the 7th century BC by exiles from Sparta, the city was christened Taras and became one of the wealthiest and most important colonies of Magna Graecia, with a peak population of 300,000. The fun finished, however, in the 3rd century BC when the Romans marched in, changed its name to Tarentum and set off a two-millennia decline in fortunes.

Taranto, along with La Spezia, is Italy’s major naval base, and the presence of young sailors is emblematic of a city that has always looked to the sea. Apparently the first cat landed on European shores here.