Reggio di Calabria,Italy

Reggio is the main launching point for ferries to Sicily and home to the spectacular Bronzi di Riace. Otherwise it has the slightly dissolute feel shared by most ports and a long, impressive seafront promenade – packed during the evening passeggiata. The orange lights of Sicily sparkle temptingly across the Straits of Messina, almost within reach.

Beyond the seafront a grid of streets gives way to urban sprawl. Ravaged by earthquakes, the most recent in 1908, this once-proud ancient Greek city has plenty of other woes. As a port and the largest town close to the ’ndrangheta strongholds of Aspromonte, organised crime is a major issue.

There are plenty of festivals in Reggio – early August sees the Festival dello Stretto(www.festivaldellostretto.it), featuring the traditional music of the south.